Hermès is world-renowned for its iconic Birkin bag, as well as other designs such as the Kelly. It can be a near-impossible task to obtain one of these bags directly from the source, let alone have the luxury of choice.
However, if you are lucky enough to get your pick, or you are opting for alternative Hermès leather goods, then you may want to deepen your understanding of the various leather options.
Whether you’re a first-time buyer or a seasoned collector, this guide breaks down the most popular Hermès leathers, how they wear, and which ones may be right for you.
Different Types Of Hermès Leather
1. Togo - Best For: Everyday use
- Finish: Matte finish with visible grain
- Texture: Medium grain
- Construction: Supple but holds shape
- Durability: Scratch-resistant and resilient
Togo is one of the most popular Hermès leathers and a staple for Birkins and Kellys. Its soft pebbled finish adds texture while remaining relatively lightweight.
2. Clemence - Best For: Laid-Back Luxury
- Finish: Soft and matte
- Texture: Wide grain
- Construction: Slouchier than Togo
- Durability: Scratch-resistant but may lose shape over time
Made from bull calfskin, Clemence leather has a luxurious, casual feel. It's perfect for those who prefer their bags to have a little more 'give'.
3. Epsom - Best For: A Structured Look
- Finish: Embossed grain with a slight sheen
- Texture: Cross-hatched grain
- Construction: Stiff and structured
- Durability: Extremely scratch-resistant and holds shape well
Epsom leather is lightweight and easy to clean, making it a go-to for smaller bags and travel-ready pieces like the Kelly Pochette.
4. Box Calf - Best For: Formal Or Vintage-Style Bags
- Finish: Smooth with high shine
- Texture: Flat grain, ultra smooth texture with shine
- Construction: Rigid
- Durability: Prone to scratches but ages beautifully
One of the oldest Hermès leathers, Box Calf is elegant and timeless. Scratches can develop into a rich patina over time, making it a favorite among vintage collectors.
5. Swift - Best For: Bright Colors & Detailed Designs
- Finish: Soft and semi-matte
- Texture: Smooth with minimal, fine grain
- Construction: Soft & light
- Durability: Softer and more delicate
Swift leather absorbs dye exceptionally well, resulting in vibrant, eye-catching bags.
6. Exotic Hermès Leathers
If you’re looking for investment-grade pieces, Hermès’ exotic leathers are in a league of their own.
- Crocodile (Porosus & Niloticus): High-shine finish, ultra-luxury status symbol
- Alligator: More accessible than crocodile, still rare and high-end
- Ostrich: Polka-dot effect from feather follicles, highly durable and water-resistant
- Lizard (Varanus): High gloss, often used for mini styles like the Kelly Mini or Constance
Note: Exotic Hermès bags are subject to strict CITES regulations when buying or selling internationally.
How To Choose The Right Hermès Leather
The leather you choose can affect how little or how often you opt to wear your Hermès bag or accessory. It is important to make a considered choice in order not to be left with buyer's regret.
As a starting point, take into account your lifestyle and ask yourself the following questions:
- Where will I wear this item?
- How often will I wear it?
- Do I prefer a structured or more laid-back look?
- Does this leather look better in certain colors?
- Do I prefer glossy finish or grainy look?
The Lowdown:
- Prefer a structured look? Choose Epsom or Box Calf
- Leaning towards a slouchy silhouette? Opt for Clemence
- Want something durable and low-maintenance? Togo is your best bet
- Looking for ultra-luxury? Explore exotic skins
A Short History Of Hermès Leather Goods
Hermès has a rich heritage that began in 1837 when Thierry Hermès founded the company in Paris as a harness workshop serving European noblemen. Specializing in finely crafted leather harnesses and bridles, the brand quickly became synonymous with artisanal excellence.
As the demand for equestrian accessories evolved, so did Hermès. By the early 20th century, the house began creating leather travel bags and handbags, applying the same meticulous craftsmanship to these new categories. In 1922, Hermès introduced its first handbag, designed after Thierry Hermès’ son’s wife said she couldn’t find a suitable bag.
One of the most iconic leather designs, the Kelly bag, was originally created in the 1930s but rose to fame when Grace Kelly was famously photographed with it in the 1950s. Decades later, the Birkin bag was born in 1984, after a conversation between actress Jane Birkin and then-CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight. Both bags remain among the most coveted luxury accessories in the world.
Hermès leather goods are still handcrafted in France, using premium materials such as Togo, Clemence, Epsom, and Box Calf, as well as exotics like crocodile, ostrich, and lizard. Each bag can take up to 20 hours or more to complete, showcasing the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship, durability, and timeless design.
How Grain Affects Value in Resale
When it comes to reselling Hermès bags, the type of leather, and more specifically, the grain, can significantly impact resale value. Certain grains are more desirable to collectors and can command higher prices.
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Structured Grains (Epsom, Togo): Bags in these leathers often retain their shape longer, making them appealing in the secondary market. Epsom, in particular, tends to photograph well and holds color beautifully, boosting desirability.
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Smooth Leathers (Box Calf, Swift): While elegant, these are more prone to visible wear and scratches. Collectors love the vintage patina of Box Calf, but condition can make or break the resale value.
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Exotic Grains: Crocodile and ostrich Hermès bags are top-tier in resale. However, scale symmetry and leather condition (no lifting or drying) are critical for maintaining value.
Understanding how grain influences resale can help you make smarter investment choices when buying or selling Hermès bags.
Where To Buy Hermès Bags Directly?
Some Hermès bags are notoriously hard to purchase directly from an Hermès boutique. With waitlists and quotas, it's not a case of anyone can purchase a Birkin or a Kelly at any given time. It can take years to be offered the chance to buy one, and even then it may not be the size, color, or leather you were after.
At myGemma, we specialize in authenticated, curated luxury resale. We offer a wide selection of Hermès bags, including Birkins, Kellys, and rarer styles in various leathers and sizes.
The best part? You can buy directly from our website or make an appointment to visit our showroom in person.
How To Sell Hermès Bags
Looking to downsize your collection or upgrade to something new? myGemma offers fast, professional selling options. You can get paid in as little as 24 hours or choose to consign for maximum value. Whether it’s Togo leather or crocodile, we accept a wide range of Hermès leathers.
Check out our Trustpilot reviews to see what previous customers have to say about us. Follow us along on Instagram and TikTok to see new product arrivals and stay up to date with any sales.
